Day 8 Part 1 - Masada and the Dead Sea

We rise early (as usual) to get down to breakfast.  Breakfast is beginning to have that familiar and comfortable feeling of routine.  Few surprises anymore, I have scouted out several things I really like and have enjoyed them most mornings.  Just don't fall for the "yogurt" in the familiar little containers with the foil top.  It's not really yogurt, it's buttermilk but thicker.  I kept thinking that a different label would be yogurt, but they are all the same.  Not my favorite. 

At breakfast the realization that our tour of Israel is quickly coming to an end begins to take hold.  We have seen so much, experienced so much, met some new friends, how can this end?  The thought is intentionally pushed aside as I think of what we are doing today, we will see Masada.  I have wanted to experience Masada and the Dead Sea for so very long.  I am so stoked to be able to realize this dream and it will be today.  

We eagerly board the buses in anticipation of traveling to the southern region of Israel.  Galilee seems so long ago.  Jerusalem has been so intense, so much, so close, everywhere we have turned a new experience.  The buses pull out into nearly empty Jerusalem highways, I guess this is earlier than most Israeli's get up.  We head south.

The geography of Israel is fascinating.  We do not drive very far when our guide, Eli, tells us that we will soon be seeing a distinct change in the landscape.  It will be much more arid, less vegetation, more barren.  Frankly, after leaving the region of Galilee I though Jerusalem was pretty stark in comparison.  Sure enough, almost like crossing over a line on the road, we are definitely in a desert.  The Judean Wilderness.  There is virtually nothing green on the hillsides and no water to see.

It isn't until we enter this austere landscape that we begin to see bedouin people who herd goat and other livestock over this barren terrain.  It makes you wonder what they find for their animals to eat.  They still live a nomadic lifestyle in tents and sometimes shacks that look a little more permanent, like a home base.

What we cannot tell as we drive other than the diesel engines are almost quiet, is that we are driving downhill.  When we come to the Dead Sea, we will be at the lowest point of dry land on the entire planet.  We pass a sign that tells us we are at sea level.  Since Jerusalem is 2555 feet above sea level, we have already lost a fair amount of elevation.  We will lose 1401 more feet by the time we get to the Dead Sea.  Since this lake is the lowest point, nothing drains away from it.  Even though this is true, the lake is drying up.  So much of the water from the Jordan river is diverted as drinking water to Israel's thirsty cities and so much is used for agriculture, very little actually makes it to the Dead Sea.  Much more water evaporates each day than is replenished.  Our guide tells us that the lake has been losing 10 feet of water every year for the past 14 years.  If you look at the maps in the back of your Bible you will see the narrowest part of the lake just below the middle.  The water level is so low that this narrow part is nearly all dry.  The lake is almost two separate lakes at this point.  This is rather interesting as it would fulfill biblical prophecy.  

Because of the drying of the lake, there is some concern.  There is some talk of putting in a water pipeline from the Red Sea which is only 80 miles away from the southern end.  This seems like it would not be difficult as it would be downhill the whole way.  The saline level of the lake is about 35% right now.  Adding sea water would reduce the saltiness of the lake and perhaps bring new life to the lake, another yet-to-be-fulfilled prophecy of the Old Testament (Ezek. 47:9).

The Israeli's don't care for the name "Dead Sea", they have never called it that.  I sympathize with this.  How would we like it if we saw on Israeli maps of the USA such names of our national treasures like Mt. Rushmore - "Four Dead Guys" or the Statue of Liberty - "The Green Lady"?  The name is a relatively modern label.  "The Salt Sea", "The Sea of Arabah", "The Asphalt Sea", "The Sea of Sodom" are some of the names for the body of water in antiquity.  The label "Dead" is not really accurate.  There is actually some small fish that live in the lake, which is contrary to what I have always been told.  There is also a huge amount of agriculture that takes place all around the lake.  They grow bananas, and some of the largest vegetables anywhere right here.  

The Israeli's discovered that growing fruit and vegetables in the brackish waters "distress" the trees / plants in such a way that they grow amazing produce.  This totally messes with my mind.  Pictures of huge melons, squash and other produce testify to this amazing contradiction.  The acres and acres of agriculture on the north end of the lake surprise me as the highway drops to the valley floor.  

I am beginning to feel the heat of the outside warm the bus.  This may be the warmest day yet.  I wore my cargo pants with the zip-off legs in anticipation of it being hot today.  So far, the legs have stayed on the pants the whole trip.  If I find it necessary to zip them off it will justify purchasing them in the first place.  
We drive on and on by the shore of the lake, rugged mountains on our west side not far away, the lake and the country of Jordan to the east.  

It is interesting that it looks like there are communities on the far side of the lake from us.  Sure enough, they are Arab communities on the Jordan side.  I wonder where they get enough drinkable water to make life possible here.  The land of Israel continues to amaze.

We pass the community of Qumran, near where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found.  

We pass the Kidron Valley where it begins and goes clear up to the Temple Mount.  We pass En Gedi where David hid in the caves from King Saul.  

Finally in the distance I see it, the destination I have been waiting for, Masada!